Tools & materials: skate tool (3/8″, 1/2″, 9/16″), Phillips/Allen driver (as needed), microfiber cloths, small brush/toothbrush, cotton swabs, mild dish soap, warm water, 70–90% isopropyl alcohol (for metal only), silicone-based grease or dry PTFE lube (tiny amount) for the pivot, paper towels, optional blue threadlocker (Loctite 242), Scotch-Brite/soft brass brush for light rust, gloves.

1) Preparation
– Set up a flat, clean, dry workspace.
– Keep liquids away from bearings; if removing wheels, prepare a tray.

2) Orientation & marking
– Label front/back and left/right trucks.
– Note kingpin direction and any wedge/dewedge riser angles.

3) (Optional) Remove wheels
– Use a 1/2″ socket to take off axle nuts.
– Store inner/outer speed rings and wheels (with bearings) somewhere clean and dry.

4) Separate trucks from the deck
– Hold top bolts and loosen 3/8″ nuts underneath.
– Top-mount: lift the truck off. Drop-through: slide gently out of the cutout.

5) Remove kingpin and top/bottom stack
– Use a 9/16″ socket to remove the kingpin nut.
– Order: top cup washer → top bushing → free hanger pivot from pivot cup → lift hanger off kingpin → bottom bushing → bottom cup washer.
– Keep each truck’s parts grouped.

6) Dry clean
– Brush off dust/grit from hanger, baseplate, and hardware with a brush and dry cloth.

7) Clean metal parts
– Wipe with a cloth lightly dampened with warm soapy water.
– Spot-clean tar/grease on metal with isopropyl alcohol.
– Do not soak parts; wipe, then dry completely.

8) Remove light rust
– Use Scotch-Brite or a fine brass brush on surface rust.
– Wipe dry immediately to prevent flash rust.

9) Clean the pivot cup
– Gently clean inside with a cotton swab moistened with a little soapy water.
– Don’t soak or use solvents; wick moisture with a dry swab and let air-dry fully.

10) Bushing care
– Wipe only with a mildly soapy, slightly damp cloth.
– Do not use alcohol/petroleum (damages urethane).
– Replace if cracked, ovalized, or chunking.

11) Inspect hanger & kingpin
– Lightly dress any burrs/mushrooming in bushing seats.
– Ensure kingpin threads are clean and intact.

12) Lubricate the pivot (very little)
– Apply a tiny smear of silicone grease or dry PTFE inside the pivot cup.
– Spread evenly and wipe excess; avoid contaminating bushings.

13) (Optional) Thread locking
– If the kingpin nut loosens, apply a tiny drop of blue Loctite 242 to threads (cure per instructions).

14) Reassembly order
– Bottom cup washer (concave toward bushing) → bottom bushing → seat hanger pivot in the cup → lower hanger onto kingpin → top bushing → top cup washer → hand-start the kingpin nut.

15) Initial tightness
– Tighten until vertical play is gone but the hanger still turns freely.
– Neutral baseline: on many setups the kingpin tip sits roughly flush with the nut (varies by bushings).

16) Mount to the deck
– Kingpins typically face inward; keep wedge/dewedge orientation.
– Seat baseplate flat; tighten hardware in a crisscross pattern; snug, don’t crush the deck.

17) Reinstall wheels
– Inner speed ring → wheel (with bearings) → outer speed ring → axle nut.
– Tighten to remove side play, then back off slightly so the wheel spins freely.

18) Symmetry & alignment
– Match left/right kingpin nut settings (count turns or threads).
– Confirm bushings sit squarely in their cups.

19) Ground check
– On the board, rock side-to-side; listen for squeak (pivot) or clunk (loose).
– If squeak persists, add a hair more pivot lube; keep lube off bushings.

20) Short ride & fine-tune
– Start slow. If twitchy, tighten the front truck 1/8–1/4 turn.
– If it won’t return to center, loosen slightly.
– Many riders set the rear a touch tighter than the front.

21) Final check
– After 10–15 minutes, re-check baseplate, axle, and kingpin nuts.
– Wipe moisture/debris and store the board dry.